Sunday, May 26, 2013

Seeing the family

Cam arrived by train today, Uncle Vic visited for a bit, Stephan and Sina came all the way from the east to visit. And the rest of the family paraded through as Penny and I sat at the dinner table greeting, eating, talking and just enjoying being inside while it rained all day.

It was a great day, really enjoyed hearing Cams stories, we planned a visit to Frankfurt for today and then leave for US on Tuesday.

Seems like our time on the road has just zipped by, already planing a fall visit. We have been so grateful every day that our bodies are strong and we have not needed those little international insurance cards in our pockets.

Life is good.

See you all soon.

Saturday, May 25, 2013

May 26, Weisbaden

Penny and I have gone from Salzburg, to Dachau, to Weisbaden and hiked for four days north on the Rhine River and back. We have put in many miles on our muddy boots. We heve visited five castles. One in ruins, one still lived in by the family after 33 generations, one is a hostile that provided us a room for the night and the other two gave us scenic, Robin hood  walks through lush forests. Our days mirror each other, though the details vary, the consistency of German hospitality and cooperative rainfall stays the same.

Each morning begins with the "body part check". The evening's. aches and pains remind us of our age, but our quick recovery has been our signal that all is well and another day of walking is possible. Knees are the most fragile, so we surprise ourselves when a bit of rest brings them back to life.

We dress in our hiking clothes, we left suitcases at Caroline's, so we are truly road warriors now with our hiking clothes and our clean after-hike clothes. We are finding out what our hair looks like after four days without product. Not a pretty sight. The thing I love about Europe is that everyone is out, hiking, riding bikes, riding trains, weathering rain storms, so our look is common and no one sees our dirty boots and careless layers of unmatched clothing as anything unusual. We are just travelers like everyone else, happy to be out in the country.

The hotels, pensions, and hostiles have all included breakfast. It includes fresh German crusty rolls, dark nutty breads, home made jams and jellies, yogurt and mousli, fresh, dark coffee in tiny cups and slices of meats and cheeses. Goat cheese and herbs and Gouda continue to be my favorites. We have not refused the breads, glutin will go when we get home, but it seems rude to pass up the delights of the German breakfast.


Thought the cups are small, the pitchers of coffee are endless, so we drink our fill and commit to visiting every WC  along the way. Our packing takes only a few minutes, our packs are small. Penny keeps buying things, like a sweater for Barry, and the pack seems to absorb the new volume easily. Squashing things into the corners is becoming a refined art. Mine seems to get heavier every day, even when I am only buying charms for my bracelet. We are both glad we left our big packs at home and we are keeping notes for "next time" since so much of what we brought has not been used. Leaving behind our entire suitcase, gives you an idea of how little we really need.

Once our day packs are loaded, we set off on the days trek. Usually uphill, one day we did the river trek, that was a favorite for both of us. Alone on the trail, heading forward gave us a particular thrill. Heading up has its challenges. Using our walking poles we protect our knees, but taking the back roads has lead us to new paths and often, the clear destination from the river bank, disappears once we step into the dense, spring forest and searching out the paths, deciphering the "to castle" signs, has been a challenge. There are basically castles in all directions, so the signs often point both ways.

Our morning treks have varied, but we use the sun to its full advantage and push to complete our hikes before the dark rain clouds start to gather. We have set our destinations to include lunch, rest and a sight seeing castle visit, then back on the road by 1 or so, heading by foot, boat or train to the next spot along the Rhine.  Checking in to our hotel by 4 for a hot shower, dinner and several glasses of the delicious white wines of the area finish our day. Three of our four days brought rainfall as we were heading back, once, our plans got derailed by heavy rain, hail and cold winds that started about 11 so we took the boat on that day and did our walking early and late, still saw two castles, just not quite how we had planned. The towns are pretty quiet, tourists haven't arrived yet. So finding hotels on the fly has not been a problem.

 Penny and I talk about our return to this area, the ease of traveling by bus, train bike and foot makes it unique and the possibilities see endless. Castles jut out on every hilltop and wineries fill the valleys.  We never go a chance to go wine tasting, never took a boat on the Mosel river, and there are many towns we didn't get a glimpse of, so i hope to return with my little pack and maybe a bicycle to the lovely Rhine again.

Today us

Saturday, May 18, 2013

Settling in to Salzburg

Okay, I was a bit harsh in my description of Salzburg. It was a hard travel day, but now we have settled in, gotten to know the neighborhood, learned to tolerate the jack hammers and are planning our next visit.

Yesterday we took the Sound of Music tour, our guide was really funny and the hills were definitely alive. After a day with our guide and a Mozart concert and dinner in the Salzburg fortress that has been standing for 1000 years give or take 500, history has never been my strength. We dashed home in the rain and feel like this is a city to love.

Today, we walked about 8 miles along the river out to a town called Hellbraun and visited a castle for lunch. Garlic soup and green salad, yummmm. We have decided we have seen enough churches to last the rest of the trip, but castles, we love castles. Many  more castles to come in Germany.  Salzburg has 38 churches in a very small area, we can't keep them straight. They should be good landmarks. But green onion domes are a dime a dozen and they all look the same to us.

However, we are able to navigate a lot better after three days, and I have had lots less trouble with street beggars. I think we were targets walking with our luggage. We are taking the bus back to the train station tomorrow, avoiding the mile of walking with our luggage.

Our host here, Vivian, has been great, so helpful and friendly. She is 28 and taking on the running and ownership of this hotel. Pretty bold. She fixes us cappuccinos in the morning and has a wonderful spread of food for her guests in a cozy dinning room. Will definitely come back. For the record the name is Trummer-Strube.

It was just a short walk out of the city where all of the bike riders and baby carriages are wheeling along. We spent most of our day hoofing along the trails.

The Lake District is so beautiful, and Monsee is worth a second look. Next time I would like to come during the festival and take in much more Mozart. We went to his residence today for a bit of history, found it disappointing. The main emphasis was on authentication images of him. He is the most  painted musician in history. So lots of imitations that were done of other people and the later changed to Mozart when he got famous.  I would have preferred another concert, his chamber music is so great here in his city.

Off to Munich tomorrow,





Thursday, May 16, 2013

Crowds in Salzburg

We found the crowds and intensity of the city a bit much today after leaving our quiet little spot in Hallstatt. This is our last big city, so we will tolerate the dirt and noise, but be glad to move on.  I was approached by at  least a dozen people asking for money.   it gets unnerving after awhile.  Also can't believe the number of young people smoking.  Seems like more than I have ever noticed before.  Everyone seems to be lighting up. It is sad to see so many really young people smoking so much. The temperatures  are really nice, but sitting outside is a pain with the smokers.

Funny thing happened this evening. While Penny and I were out having the best meal of the trip so far.  Tortellini with fresh garlic sauce, unbelievable!!  Her pants, which were hung in the window to dry, fell out of the four story window and are now caught on a flag pole over the street. We can see them, but can't possibly get them without help for e hotel staff. Too funny.  The last hotel wouldn't let us do any laundry, so Penny washed a bunch when we arrived today. The good part is that our luggage is really heavy, with the extra gifts, etc. so losing a few items on flag poles might not be a bad thing.

We had a few train incidents today. The train to Salzburg stopped in a little town and everyone had to get off the train and walk across the tracks to get on another train. Luckily, I asked a young man what was going on and he helped us. But getting up into the train from the track level proved harder than we thought. We started to heave our luggage up and it was too heavy. A nice man, helped both of us get our luggage up. Then we climbed aboard. Lots of panting and sweating accompanied that transfer.



Salzburg is full of construction. Our street is dusty with jack hammer dirt and  guard rails are all around to keep people for falling into huge holes.  Made for a dirty and dusty day in this neighborhood.

The streets below are full of the noises of you people partying, we hope thins will settle down so we can sleep.

More later

Leaving Halstatt :( The land of contrast

Halstatt showed us the contrast of experiences over the past days. One of our favorite experiences was going though a 7000 year old salt mine. The contrast was ni the hi tech displays that were projected inside the cave to help us understand how salt deposits get formed and locked into places in the earths crust. Really cool cave projections.  We went to the mines after walking 7 k around the lake,it was mid day and hot. After walking another 100 steps to the mine entrance, the temperature dropped to 11 centigrade  within m 20 steps. Such a contrast. We also experienced the contrast of trying to simplify our travel by buying more stuff.. Both Penny and I are struggling with our day packs. We carry our water, lunch, jackets, walking poles,, etc for our day and in the end, the uneven weight and pull on our shoulders causes us pain. So our efforts simplify, seems to make things harder. We both bought day packs today, designed by experts, the packs  have waist bands, shoulder support, ergonomic back supporters. So, here we are using high tech stuff to do very low tech travel, walking. Seems crazy, but we seem to need the advanced design to simplify.

We met up with. Cam today, only a moment as we passes at the boat stop. It was such a surprise to see him, so random that we were on that boat and there he was too. The boat run every hour, so there were lots of other choices.

More later,

Carol





Monday, May 13, 2013

The Dolomites beat us up!!

We have had two days of  pretty grueling mountaintop hiking. Can't decide if it is harder climbing or descending both have challenges. Today we left the poles behind in our hotel room, big mistake, we needed them for the sharp ascent to the east side of the valley above the river. We got close to two castles today but the third remained un conquered,  just out of reach on the next ridge. We appreciate the selection of the castle locations, certainly they were safe from the tourist attack:).

I think today is just a hint of what we will encounter in Germany. The beauty of climbing in Italy, is the gelato at the end of the day!! Makes it all worth while. Also the Venitian spritz is a great cool drink for the hot hikers.  We balance our days with a bit I'd window shopping and a bit of touring, so we feel like it isn't just hiking. Though we are out there for about 4 or 5 hours. Our muscles will remember this trip, even if our brains forget.

Mother's Day celebration included a trip to Oberbozen, two long walks and then dinner at a memorable place where pizza and Venetian spritz are the specialties. We sat next to a group that included four adults, five young children, one huge dog, two or maybe three languages. It was a great show for us as we sipped our spritz's and loosened our boots.  Those days are behind us.

The days have been perfect with a bit of cool breezes, lots of sun and occasional cloud cover. The mountains are so beautiful, we can't help taking lots of photos. We are both very pleased with the performance of our boots, they are getting a workout. I am ready to start the "beyond Rick Steves" series for people with more time and are interested in getting dirty while traveling.

We have really enjoyed meeting the other walkers along the paths and getting the feel of the European walkers.  Not many Americans out there on the paths, but I am sure they would find it enlightening if they tried it.

You may be wondering what our destinations have been. Well, our primary destination every day is to walk three or four hours. Even if it is just around town, many times we circle and come back to where we start, sometimes we find something interesting, but we usually don't end up in the place we intended. There are so many paths and each is numbered and arrows point in all directions. We just stay on the paths and keep going. Today the path got so steep we took a break and two young people came along, we asked them how far or the next town, they said one hour up hill, we decided, we would call it quits and head down back to the river. The whole trip up and back took about four hours and here we are back in our room, Penny is napping and I am blogging. We leave tomorrow for Hallstatt, via Salzburg  and may not get service there. We are doing great.

Friday, May 10, 2013

Venice

Venice has dropped from a favorite. I had trouble getting us on the correct water bus, so we spent an hour this morning traveling the back waters of Venice.  When we finally  figured out, the crowds had beaten us and were found ourselves packed into saint mark's square.  We enjoyed the orientation tour by Rick Steves and then headed to the back streets away from the crowds. I just don't remember it being so intense before.  The shopping g is overwhelming. Every corner houses another five shops, they are are every where.  We found Frari church and spent some time enjoying the art work.  Found our way through the maze of streets, what a travelers nightmare. Every one  is looking at maps, asking for directions and looking hot and frustrated. We got a tip from Rick Steves that helped us a lot. Each square has signs that point to main attractions. The signs are not very noticeable unless you know where to look. They saved us.

We are glad to be staying near the train station, easy to locate.

Back at our room we enjoyed a glass of wine in the patio and the had a dinner of fresh fish and spinach. Yum.

Time for bed, we go to Bolzano tomorrow, hope it doesn't disappoint.  We are doing well. Venice proved to be a bit too intense for me.  Will be back when it isn't peek season,

Thursday, May 9, 2013

Venice

Well, we have been climbing mountains on the Italian coast, eating pasta to keep up our strength and enjoying everything about Italy. We had three days in Florence and then went to the cinque terre for three nights, unbelievable, must return, best hard working vacation ever.  Now we are taking it easy in Venice and then on to the Italian alps for more hiking. I don't think I realized how great it would be to get out and really experience Italy so close. It is great, I can definitely recommend a walking vacation.

It is time for lights out, penny is a slave driver when it comes to getting sleep:)

We miss you all,

Sunday, May 5, 2013

Photos of Florence




Rome in three days

Penny and I got a decent night sleep, though we were both up at 4 am writing and blogging until 5 then slept until 9 oops, there goes our early start.  Had breakfast in our room and enjoyed our first cappuccino and chocolate croissant across the street from the station. Our room at the Robinson Hotel is great, quite, clean.   We headed for the colosseum on the bus, got there along with the mid- morning crowds and decided to go to the forum first, since it looked less busy.  Turns out the forum was completely closed for the holiday and by the time we figured out what was going on, the colosseum had closed too. Oh we'll, we had lunch in our back packs and a beautiful day, so we found a spot and ate our fruit, cheese, meat and the required bottle of wine.. Got to try out the bamboo silverware and plastic cups and plates.. Perfect.  From there, we bussed it over to the Spanish steps.  Not sure why they are called Spanish, but the flowers are in bloom and the area is stunning, even with several thousand people enjoying the same view.  it started to rain and that thinned the crowd a bit.
But didn't discourage us. It is warm and the rain only lasts a few minutes.

Rome is fresher in the spring.  The rain is washing everything and freshening it. From the Spanish steps, we walked to Trevi fountain. Another thousand people joined us there, it was great to watch the lovers throw in there coins and the old folks smile and kiss as the cameras keep snapping.
Trevi is named because of the three main roads that lead to it. It is hidden away from the main streets, so Emily has been our guide.

We stopped at a great little restaurant, had lasagna. Bruschetta and a dessert that was like a filled donut hole soaked in brandy.  Can't complain. We are doing well,

Love,

Mom

Florence

I am having trouble posting, so went ahead and put my unfinished piece up before I lost it.

We leave Florence tomorrow and take the train to Lucca and then on to cinque Terre. We plan to walk the wall in Lucca before heading to the coast.  It will be sad to leave Florence, but I will be back.  I cannot imagine not returning.

The best part of the trip so far is feeling so comfortable and safe in every corner of the city.

Love it here,  will try to post a few photos. Adjusting to using the iPad, each day gets better.

Love you all,

Natalie please join viber so we can chat.



Florence

Reflections on our three days in Florence

Charming....I got my first 2 charms on my bracelet.  One of colosseum in Rome and one of David.  Obviously:)

The light on the Duomo makes the city glow.

Walking a mile uphill to hear the Dominican monks chant,  made perfect sense and ended our day perfectly.

A diet of Nutella crepes, spaghetti and salad, gelato and  wine also makes perfect sense. Who needs protein?

Walking in circles, is worth it when the sunset is so beautiful we have been happy to circle around until it sets, the reflection of the buildings gets more interesting every time you circle back and your hiking boots are still comfortable after 10 hours of standing and walking.

Getting "lost" has been our theme for the past few days and what a wonderful place to get lost.  Every street twists and turns with flower boxes peeking from every balcony and new views of the familiar landmarks sometimes just jump out at us.  We use Emily when we really need to find something. But mostly we are just enjoying exploring the little streets and finding secluded little neighborhoods with local restaurants and friendly singing locals.


This city with its shop keepers who love their hand made leather, the artists in the plaza that carefully wrap and protect the painting they painted this morning, and the group of young people who banded together with us to keep out people trying to cut in line in front of us after we had waited 2 hours.  We had no idea how bonded our little group was until our place in line was threatened by an outsider.  It made penny and I smile.

From early morning until late, we tromped from one end of the city to the other, watched the grumpy Americans complain, the fire y Italians protect their place in line for the Uffitzie and felt so lucky to be alive on a planet where Italians share their place with us.

I cannot imagine a city with more to give the world, Michelangelo , Donatello , da Vinci , in the past two days we got to see where da Vinci tried out his flying machines, Michelangelo's only canvas painting and the brilliance of the renesaince painters that added three dimensional images to our world. It is a bit overwhelm ing.

We try to pay attention to the mundane things in our life like washing out our socks and remembering to check the train schedule, but the majority of our time here has been spent walking, learning, and taking the time to watch this beautiful city move from rain, to sun, to darkness. The church bells ring all day on Sunday from the many churches sprinkled through out the town center.

Friday, May 3, 2013

So much gelato, so little time.

Penny and had a wonderful time in Rome. Didn't want to go. Met a lovely gentleman who visited with us before we caught our train, everyone is so friendly.  Took the train to Florence this morning, met a family from Amsterdam and exchanged information for possible future house exchange.  It was a day of meeting people and enjoying the opportunity. We met our old friend Suvi the golden shepherd that guards the hotel florentino. She is fine and is now 4  1/2 years old.  Nothing has changed here. We are even in the same room as we were last year.  And I am glad to say David charmed Penny as much as he charms me.  We didn't have reservations, but got in at the end of the day,  the sad news is that the earthquakes in Florence have caused some damage to Davis's feet, so they have a seismic machine recording activity and damage now. Can't imagine the world without David.  Did the Florence walking tour and watched the sun set over the ponteveccio (don,t think I spelled that correctly)  and got dinner on our way as we strolled in the warm evening back to our hotel.  Dinner included our first gelato and we think it needs be on the menu for all future meals. This is the gelato Capitol after all.  We love Florence, no surprise. I remember loving every spot more than the last, so here we are loving Rome and Florence, with many more places ahead.

Sunset over the river, musicians playing  and singing, crowds of young and old people enjoying a sidewalk performer. It doesn't get better than this.

Wish I was more creative, but it is late and I have to have a shower and get ready for our big trek tomorrow.

Love to you all,

pS. Techno group,

The IPad mini is performing okay for blogging and email. Not a great camera ( too big, clumsy, hard to get what I want, almost dropped from bus and into river. No way to hang on and every time I touch the screen, it changes functions or settings.  No protection on case so I need gene to get me insurance, if I drop it, it will break. Wish I had my little camera.

As an I pod it is lousy.  We are using it to listen to Rich Steves but so sensitive to any touch. Bulky,  I don't  want to hold it, doesn't fit in purse or bag with ear phones in place.  Can't take photo while listening.  Should have brought iPod. Much easier.

It is great for watching the travel shows on the bus and reviewing photos, so I like those abilities.
As a computer it's  great.  I am using it now and can't complain.  Wish I had added in those few items so I had some options.  I was too eager for this to replace them all.  I started using my iPhone for taking photos today, so now we have 4 devices with photos, so messy.

Will keep you posted on the blog.  Hope everything is going well,

Love to all,

Mom

Carol

Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Just re read my last blog. Sorry about all of the mistakes, misspellings, punctuation and capitalization errors. It is a mess. Can't seem to catch the errors as I am writing, so reading will be a bit of a translation process. Sorry.

Getting used to my little iPad

Later.....

Arriving in Rome

First order of business. A call out to gene and gene sr and Gloria for getting penny and I here. We loved the first class treatment with delta even if we were flying to different destinations:)  penny had a flawless flight over arriving in Rome as. Planned my trip was quite a bit more challenging because of a disabled plane in lax that shifted all those paying customers to every other New York flight and pushed me to grab a cab and head to OC to fly to Atlanta. Long story,  not sure a want to record it for the future. Then Atlanta to Barcelona got me close and a little flight with Vueling got me to Rome an hour after penny. However, the infamous assumptions. Got us booth in trouble. Penny assumed is would have to go through security when I arrived, wrong, I went through security in Barcelona. Thus i was at baggage claim 10 she was at 7. And I assumed she would have to exit the baggage claim in order to find out where my flight was going to land ( there are three terminals) but she got info from delta staff So didn't need  to leave security.  So she was inside and I was 100 feet away on the outside and it  wasn't until 3 hours later that we finally connected. All electronic systems of communication failed us. We had a few more things that happened throwing stones In our path but in the end we found each other got the train and settled in our lovely little oasis away from the busy streets of Rome. We began our adventure with a pizza and wine dinner and hot showers. Then exausted with the travel day, we went to bed. Now it is 3 am and I am having the predictable difficulty sleeping. So my little iPad is keeping me entertained with the Kylie at the zoo photos and now this silent conversation with all of you. We have a bit of a Rome plan for tomorrow but with the pope doing a special service. We are avoiding the Vatican tomorrow. Sticking to the ancient sites. Our location is pretty idea, thanks Rick. We have a grocery store across the street and the bus station also a Ross the street, so we have breakfast and lunch in our litte frig and will catch a bus tour in the morning and get an overview of Rome. Still cant believe we made it on our first try. Thanks again gene for suspending your day figuring out how to get me here. I owe you big time.  Penny and I are having lots of laughs.

Love to all, back to bed.

Carol

Sunday, April 28, 2013

Hi this is Gene. I am testing Carols new iPad. These are pics she took on her on her new iPad. I had to upload them to picasa web albums and then choose them for the blog. Hopefully she will do that in Europe.

Saturday, April 27, 2013

Walking, writing and wine-ing 2013

Penny and I complete our final preparations. We leave early Monday morning and arrive (we hope) in Rome on Tuesday. Our 4-week trek is nearly all planned, leaving a wide margin between where we are going and how we will get there. Neither of us had the space in our lives to do a thorough planning, so we will enjoy the leisure pace and hope to do lots of walking, writing and tasting along the way.

I hope to post on this site a few times as we travel, but I refuse to commit to a daily entry. This trip is for reflection, taking in the scenery and edging away from the race against time that we find ourselves.  It has been quite some time that I have felt the need for a retreat, and the beginning is only a few hours away.  I have books to read and write, boots to soil, and a picnic set in my suitcase that I hope will see many sunny days and hunks of cheese.

I will miss Kylie terribly, sorry, she is the only family member that will make profound changes in one month. And I will be keeping a close eye on the Johnson blog.

Back real soon,

Carol

Saturday, April 20, 2013

Walking, wineing and writing 2013

Testing from phone. 9 days before departure.

Walking, wineing and writing 2013

Testing from laptop, 9 days before departure. Reread the "things I learned from my last trip" and yes, I am repeating most of them this trip. Why is it so hard to change habits?